2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

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tom2
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2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by tom2 »

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Don't know if any of you have run into this problem but if this post saves someone from having it it well worth the post.
When taking the plugs out of 2005-2008 Ford 4.6/5.4 and 6.8's the bottom of the plug breaks off... these are a different design of plug that have a full metal caseing that extends to the electrode of the plug. you put a wrench on the nut part.. the nut comes off... but the rest of the plug does not... Our dealer received a special tool from ford to in order to remove these broken plugs... here is the TSB that deals with the situation.


FORD: 2004-2005 F-150
2005 Expedition, F-Super Duty
LINCOLN: 2005 Navigator


This article supersedes TSB 06-5-9 to update the vehicle lines and model years.

ISSUE:
Some 2004-2005 F-150 and 2005 F-Super Duty, Expedition, and Navigator vehicles with a 5.4L 3-valve engine may experience difficulty with spark plug removal which may cause damage to the spark plug and leave part of the spark plug in the cylinder head.

ACTION:
Refer to the following Service Procedure for techniques to remove the spark plugs and extract broken spark plugs.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

General Spark Plug Removal

To remove spark plugs without damage, it is necessary to adhere exactly to this procedure before removal is attempted.

Make sure the engine is warm (hand touch after cooling down).
CAUTION: DO NOT REMOVE PLUGS WHEN THE ENGINE IS EXTREMELY HOT OR COLD SOAKED. THIS INCREASES THE CHANCE THE THREADS COULD BE DAMAGED.



CAUTION: BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES FOR STEP 2.



Remove the coil-on-plug assemblies and thoroughly blow out the spark plug wells and surrounding valve cover area with compressed air.
Back out the spark plugs, no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Apply penetrating oil (AeroKroil or equivalent) and fill the spark plug well just above where the jamb nut hex sits. A minimum period of 5 to 10 minutes of soak time is required. The penetrating oil will wick down to the ground electrode shield in this time. DO NOT WORK the spark plug back and forth at this point.
CAUTION: EXCESSIVE PENETRANT, OR REPEATING THE PROCESS SEVERAL TIMES WITH TOO MUCH FLUID, COULD INTRODUCE ENOUGH LIQUID VOLUME TO HYDRO-LOCK THE ENGINE.



CAUTION: DO NOT USE AIR OR POWER TOOLS FOR PLUG REMOVAL. THE PLUG MUST ONLY BE REMOVED WITH HAND TOOLS.



Slowly turn the spark plug out. Some screeching and high effort may be noticed but, not in every case. The expected removal torque is about 33 lb-ft (45 N-m) but should decrease on the way out. If it is higher, try turning the spark plug back in a half turn, then back out again. If the turning torque still seems high, repeat the back and forth rotation along with some penetrating oil to reduce turning effort.
Separated/Broken Spark Plug Removal

If the plug does come apart even after following the General Spark Plug Removal Procedure, it will break in one of two modes:

Mode 1: The ground electrode shield is left behind as an empty shell (Figure 1).

Mode 2: The porcelain centre and ground electrode shield is left behind and only the upper jamb nut comes out. In this case more soaking is required and long-reach nose pliers should be used to grasp and remove the porcelain centre from the ground electrode shield (Figure 2).

Once there is only an empty ground electrode shield left in the cylinder head, perform the following steps to remove the shield using Rotunda Special Service Tool 303-1203 (Figure 3).


NOTE: THIS TOOL IS ONLY DESIGNED TO WORK WITH AN EMPTY GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD. IF THE SPARK PLUG CAME APART IN MODE 2, THE PORCELAIN centre MUST BE REMOVED PRIOR TO FOLLOWING THESE STEPS.



The combustion chamber must be protected from contamination during the extraction process by using a modified vacuum cap (382444-S) as a stopper-type plug. This is because the remaining ground electrode shield will be thread-tapped, so the cap is needed to prevent thread chips from falling into the cylinder bore. Cut a vacuum cap to a 3/8" (10 mm) length for each ground electrode shield that needs to be removed.
Install the modified cap with a long drill bit or suitable wire (Figure 4), sized for the internal diameter of the cap. The rubber cap should bottom-out on the electrode strap of the ground electrode shield once installed.

Thread-tap the ground electrode shield using a 9.0 x 1.0 mm "plug" tap (tap profile is about 3-4 reduced diameter threads on the tip end).
Coat the end of the tap with general purpose grease as shown in Figure 5.

Turn the tap about 3 to 4 turns into the ground electrode shield once the tap begins to cut. As the shield is tapped, for every 1/2 turn, the tap should be backed up 1/8 turn to "break chips" and prevent any cut material from coiling-up and laying in the spark plug well. All of the thread chips will embed in the grease pack or drop inside the vacuum cap when following this procedure. A suitably sized tap wrench of about 7-9 inches in handle length will aid in reaching down the well. If not available, use an 8 point socket with a ratchet and drive extension. Keep the shank aligned with the axis of the spark plug bore cavity to prevent possible thread bore damage. Use care not to damage any spark plug threads on the way in.
CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD WITH THE TAP AND WRENCH. THE TAP MAY BREAK IF THIS IS ATTEMPTED.



Carefully back out the tap while maintaining the residual grease coat on the tap which contains some chips. Take care not to touch the sides of the spark plug well bore during removal.
Once the ground electrode shield is tapped, thread Rotunda Special Service Tool 303-1203 into the ground electrode shield to extract it from the spark plug well and encapsulate any remaining chips from falling into the combustion chamber.
NOTE: SEE FIGURE 6 FOR DETAILS OF THE TOOL AS INSTALLED IN THE HEAD.


Install the stepped end of the tool pilot bushing into the spark plug well ensuring it bottoms out.
Screw the centre shank into the ground electrode shield. Do not over tighten the shank, to prevent thread stripping.
Install the nylon washer and jack nut until finger tight.
Turn the jack nut with a socket and 3/8" drive ratchet until the ground electrode is freed from the cavity and withdraw the tool assembly. Several turns of the nut are required. Upon removal, any remaining chips not caught earlier by the tap grease will be captured by the rubber plug sitting at the bottom of the ground electrode shield.
NOTE: ONCE THE SPARK PLUGS HAVE ALL BEEN REMOVED, NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF MOTORCRAFT HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT (XL-2) ON THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD OF THE NEW SPARK PLUG (FIGURE 7). DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE STRAP OR THE PLUG WILL MISFIRE. THE NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED WITH NO LUBRICANT ON THE THREADS AND TORQUED TO SPECIFICATION, 25 LB-FT (34 N-m).
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford spark plugs

Post by gatorgirl »

We learned this the hard way a few weeks back. Thanks for sharing. :D
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford spark plugs

Post by brianp87 »

Ive only seen this on the 3 valve engiens. I use a tool made by lisle that I believe rich told me about and so far so good. It pushes the ceramic left into the tip of the plug and then threads in and pulls the excess out. I have used that rotunda tool from ford and ooff what a pain in the %*#. Plus the little glue on ends are pretty pricey. Check for our disscusion on this if your interested in the lisle tool # I cannot find it. Oh and by the way you may look into a special adapter for checking compression on these.
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by steven kiser »

mac tools offered a used friendl tool for this. i've used it a few times with great results. slow and easy is the key to this repair.
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by wwauto »

What does selling dvd's have to do with spark plugs?
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by tlautomotive »

SO here's my question. Mitchell says 2.8HRS to do the plugs on an 04 Ford F150 5.4L. Does this time reflect the added time for this procedure? I don't expect that it does. How much additional time are you selling for removal procedure? And, how much additional time, per spark plug, do you add to extract them if they break?

Have any of you had to remove the heads cause you couldn't extract one? Did you charge the customer?

FYI - I am planning to make the customer aware of all the possible additional costs and have him sign and understand that if one breaks off and falls in to the combustion chamber he is going to be responsible for the costs of the head removal.

I will of course take good care of my regulars, but I can't afford to just give it away cause the vehicle they own has an inherent flaw.

Any advice or opinions would be appreciated.
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by liljoe »

The customer is always informed of the possibalities of what could go wrong on these engines. If you do a good upper engine decarbonizing before you try to remove the plugs they will gennerally come out. What I do is sell the cleaning job witht he tune up, get them to drop the truck off and do the cleaning, let it set over night and then run the engine till it is up to temp, remove the coils, spray a good amount of PB Blaster in each spark plug hole, let set a couple hours and then crack each pulg loose just a little and let sit another 30 min, come back and tighten each plug and then loosen them again. This time I work the plug back and forth, while feeling for binding at the tip. Gently work the plugs in and out and they should come out. I haven't had any problems doing them this way. Before I started doing all this and had a couple go bad on, yes the customer was charged for the extraction, no I have never had to pull a head for this reason. I charge $100.00 per plug that breaks (prob a lil high) and that is just how it is, if they do not want to do the cleaning, they can go else where for a tune up.
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by tlautomotive »

Thank you...

So really my big questions is... Do we think that 2.8hrs labor in Mitchell includes the additional time to extract these specific plugs, or is this the time if they weren't inherently flawed and therefore I should add like an extra 1.5hrs for the extra labor to take them out carefully.
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by steven kiser »

any flat rate time that i've seen never ads in the time for "additional" time. i get 1.3 per plug. i don't take into consideration the fact that i already have the necessary equipment out. it's 1.3 per plug. have saying that i'll add that i found i'm getting pretty good of knowing if it's going to break or not. for the most part i get at least 1/2 a turn before they jamb up and break. i'll stop and spray a combination of pb blaster and carbon cleaner into the port. i'll even warm the fluids with a hot air gun. i think it's just a personal quirk, i can't prove it really helps. i'll leave that plug and continue on. this next step goes against everything that we've been taught about plug removal. i hit it with a 3/8 impact pistol. i had a truck that i broke the first two plugs on and it didn't look promising for the rest. i could crack the seal but it would bind. i sprayed the pb and cleaner into the cylinders and waited a bit. when i tried to extract them i was still getting resistance so i just got fed up and figured "let's speed up the process" and used the gun. every one came out. i was floored. thought maybe it was a fluke but i've done this many more times and it's proven itself. i have never broken a plug that i've broken the seat on, added the solvent, waited a while than used the gun. i have however broken ones using a ratchet?
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by ricmorin »

I feel that time is adequate for plugs, even with a bit of coaxing. Anything above that is by-the -hour.

We have never broken one off. Seen plenty blow out.
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by liljoe »

Steve, do you sell a top end cleaning before the tune-up on these? Just wondering, or do you get them from just the top side to clean the carbon off? It seems that the common factor among the different ways that others are getting them out is not to turn them steady in the removal direction. It seems to takes a little bit of non-steady movement to get them out.
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by steven kiser »

ricmorin wrote:I feel that time is adequate for plugs, even with a bit of coaxing. Anything above that is by-the -hour.

We have never broken one off. Seen plenty blow out.
just wait, your time is coming........the blow outs are one engine the break offs are another. the more i look at these brake off plugs the more i wonder "what were they thinking" the spacing between the plugs extension sleeve is so tight that a minor build up will cause it to jamb. as far as the hour goes i somewhat agree. but, and it's a biggie, i will get a minimum of one hour. a tip, the need for caution can be minimized by either using the grease like called for or what i've developed is i purchased a long piece of white plastic tubing that i attach to my shop vac that i insert into the plug bore and vac out the cylinder. after, i use my bore camera to look around. the bore camera is a necessary tool for this as well as many other applications.
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by steven kiser »

liljoe wrote:Steve, do you sell a top end cleaning before the tune-up on these? Just wondering, or do you get them from just the top side to clean the carbon off? It seems that the common factor among the different ways that others are getting them out is not to turn them steady in the removal direction. It seems to takes a little bit of non-steady movement to get them out.
it's really not a top end cleaning. i just break the seal and pour the cleaner / nut buster combo into the plug port and move on for a while. the impact or non steady pressure. funny i never looked at it that way until you mentioned it. i just have been reducing the pressure going through my 3/8 impact gun and it seems to be very successful. during slow times i'm tempted to apply steady pressure to generate income......... :shock: but then again i'll never become that type of shop owner. if i did I'd have to kick my own butt.
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by liljoe »

When I do them, I sell a top end cleaning, I mix sea foam with gas and run it through my fuel injector cleaning canster, folowed by a can of upper intake cleaner and let it set over night, then run it till it is up to temp and remove the coils and fill holes about one inch with PB Blaster. When I remove the plugs the carbon on the plugs is mostly gone, unless it has been skipping for some time, or useing oil. I might have to try the impact thing, might use my 10 volt cordless and see what happens next time. It is just hard to change a process that works, but like I said, their are many ways to do this that are correct, and many more that will bite you...............
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by brianp87 »

I lossen them and pour a little bg 44k onto them and let it sit. Ive only had a few break before this. The blow outs we see alot
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by crmeyers »

We have followed this procedure and have had very good results. The only thing we add to this process is that we perform a air induction cleaning (decarb) first. This helps loosen some of the trapped carbon deposits on the bottom of the plug's reach. We've been about 98% successful without breaking the plug since implementing this method.
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by Tim Martin »

crmeyers wrote:We have followed this procedure and have had very good results. The only thing we add to this process is that we perform a air induction cleaning (decarb) first. This helps loosen some of the trapped carbon deposits on the bottom of the plug's reach. We've been about 98% successful without breaking the plug since implementing this method.
So are we saying that carbon buildup on the underside is the culprit? I had always assumed that the threads of the spark plug got galded fast to the head.
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by steppinlarry »

We had the threaded part came out but the insulator broke off and couldn't get the extraction tool in the sleeve to remove. We rotated the engine to open the exhaust valve. We blew air up the exhaust pipe with our shop vac while chipping out the broken insulator. The air prevented anything from falling in the cylinder. Then we were able to extract the sleeve.

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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by steven kiser »

What we have to convey to our customers is we didn't make the product and will not be responsible for it. If it's runnable i will run it until it reaches temp (after i take the screws out of the coils) pull the coils and pour a combination of carb and carbon cleaner into the plug port. Then i use an impact gun or impact air ratchet and loosen the plug enough to break the seat. I'm up front with the customer about the fact it needs to stay overnight and there is an additional hour labor charge. I make it clear that it's been my experience it's the best way and no vehicle leaves my shop with the customer being charged for plug replacement and it not being done. I have more than a few come into my shop running rough and need a coil or plug and the customer shows me a receipt having paid for plugs installed a few months ago and it's obvious it never happened. After it's been resolved i ask if i can use them as a reference if needed to show other people that they've been screwed.
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Re: 2005-2008 Ford - Broken Spark Plugs

Post by Tim Martin »

Well my fine fellowmen. I am about to discover how to get a broken plug out of one of these. Of course the porcelain is broken but here we go.
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