Manager Forum

Have a 2002 ford F350 with a 7.3L in it that after it has ran for a while it will just die. It does have to run for like a hour. After it dies it will not restart until it has cooler all the way down. It does not over heat. When put on the scanner ford cam sensor codes. Found the recall made a phone call and found then it had been done in 2008. Talk to owner and he wanted me to go on and put in a new sensor. Did that and it still died. When it dies it sounds like u shut off the key. When u try to start it again it will not even pop a little nothing. It just turns and turns. Went to anther shop before us and they put all new filters and a oil change. Truck has 250000 on it. Have it outside running waiting to die....

The cam sensors are very common. Were you able to lab scope the sensor?

No I was not. I did replace it and it still does the same thing. When it dies it does it like the old 3.8 would when the module had gone bad that was on the back valve cover. It is just like u turned it off with the key..

Put the scanner back on it and found B1342 ECU internal fault,C1284 oil psi switch failure,U1027 Invalid or missing data for engine RPM,U1262 SCP Data link fault. All of them was in the cluster. I do know then they do have problem with them but can they make it die. And the coolant gauge does not work. In the pcm i have P1212 Injector Control Pressure Lower Than Desired (engine crank or run). Looked at the live data and found the ECT is -40 and then Engine coolant temperature1 is 302 and the ECT status says no fault. But then again can that make it die like that.

Cleared the codes and then the truck did start back up for about 1 min then died again. No codes untill it dies and the one that come back are B1342 ECU internal fault,C1284 oil psi switch failure are in the cluster and i did see the temp and the tranny temp gauge moving after it died. then in the pcm P1212 Injector Control Pressure Lower Than Desired (engine crank or run). Was looking at the oil temp on the live data and it said then it was 150 when it died.

Look at the injector control pressure while crsnking and see what it is, needs to be over 500 psi.

First thing I do when one of these arrives at my shop is dump oil and filter. I use Rotella motor oil in these little darlings. Incorrect or low oil will cause this issue. The next step is to replace the IPR and ICP at the same time. Check the screen on the solenoid for debris. You'll probably see some metal filings or small pieces of metal on it. Flush the heck out of the port. I use Brake Clean and a blow gun with a piece of tubing on the end. About 4' to be able to work it into port. Yes you'll have to change the oil again. Probably can skip the filter but I don't. There are the three most likely least expensive things I do first. If it doesn't work, 50 / 50 and customer needs to be kept aware since he's gambling as well as you on your advise. If it still acts this way it is going to need a high pressure pump. When you remove it don't be shocked if you see some pieces of debris in the lower galley. Don't blink an eye and just clean it out. Here's where it gets a bit hairy. There is an EGR cooling tube there. Throw it away and use the redesigned one you can get anywhere on line. The cooler that's (I think) there as well (looks like a heater core in the upper intake) replace that to. These are done to avoid and issues with them and there will be. Good Luck, I remove the hood, take front tires off and drop front end down as low as it will go and a biggie here, remove bleeder hose off of the radiator to lessen the chance of breaking the nipple off of the radiator. The few times my techs have succeeded in doing this I've filed it flush to the radiator, tapped it with a 1/8" pipe tap and use a brass adapter to attach the bleeder hose to. Don't be surprised if you start running across gaskets that have been reused and covered with sealer goop. I use all new gaskets, egr and turbo clamps to make sure of a nice clean fit. If I see any gasket cement anywhere I right away call the owner and add on between 3 and 5 hours to the job. I bang it from the beginning to. If the job pays 18 hours I quote 22. The truck is 13 or so years old, been driven all the time with high,high mileage. Take my advise, people have been in there and you're going to run into a few "what the heck" is this and t's going to add time so grab it up front.

Took some time but got a hold of the owner of the truck and he did not want to pay that much to fix it. Said he knows a guy by his house that will try to fix it.. We all know how that will go..