2006 Ford Taurus - Parasitic Draw

[BDBLOM]

Hello All, This is my first time post on this forum. I'm hoping someone can give me some insight.

I have an 06 Taurus with a 280 milamp draw that takes the battery down in a few days when parked. I have narrowed it to fuse 33 in the "smart junction box" that feeds b+ to remote climate control, instrument cluster, multi functon switch, intergrated control panel (radio and heater control) and smart junction box. I have spent some time with this and here is what it does. when the instrument cluster is disconnected the draw drops to 120 milamps immediately, then down to 10 milamps after 30 minutes or so. Replaced instrument cluster only to have the exact same symtoms with the reman cluster. I'm at a loss with this one Any help would be Greatly appreciated!

[brianp87]

Heres what I read
Most 1995 and newer Ford products have modules in them which will remain in "standby" mode for a period of time after the vehicle is shut off. While in this mode, they will draw current which is excessive by established standards for normal current drain. However, after no longer than 1 hour of inactivity (no change in the state of door switches, door handle switches, hood switch, trunk/tailgate switch, ignition switch or key-in-ignition switch), they should go to sleep, and total current draw should be less than 50 mA.

[BDBLOM]

Thanks, I didn't know it could take an hour for modules to go to sleep. I'm going to carefully recheck this car and see if maybe the owner leaves the key in the ignition when parked in their garage. I'll let you know.

[steven kiser]

i've had issues where an interior bulb had been removed because it wouldn't go off. the problem being a bad latch and it was still pulling a draw. the best way i've found to really test a system is with a simple test light (it's just easier) i'll drill a little hole in the post and attach a wire to it with a small screw. i then take the alligator clip on the test light lead and securely attach it to the battery cable. the wire i attach to the post has an alligator clip that i attach to the probe on the test light. i then remove the cable end off the post. this will not activate any system and will show any draw through the light. i've learned how to judge the amount of the draw by the intensity of the light. all you have to do if for example you open the door and create a 12v draw it to touch the cable end to the post and it will reset as long as the connection through the test light is maintained. i've found that if the battery is at all weak it will self destruct. a load tester will give you a false sense of condition. look at the trunk light and check to see if it has an illuminator at the ignition key cylinder. if it has an outside combination pas it may be defective (usually by temp) once the gem gets a signal from the pad it will illuminate the cylinder as well as the drivers floor light. i know, yadda, yadda, yadda..............................

[BDBLOM]

Update on thTaurus, 280 milamp draw never changes as long as the instrument cluster is connected. This is the reman cluster installed, which is the same symtom as the original. I suspect the GEM module but I hate to buy one to find out. Anyone know a good way to check a GEM? I suppose I could give it the champion spark plug test (throw it in a bucket of water and if it floats it's good)

[BDBLOM]

Thanks for your input Steve, I also learned years ago the simple rule "if it will burn a light it will kill the battery" and have used test lights for years, although I kinda got away from that with these subtle electrical draws. I've checked all the interior lights including the trunk and they all work as intended. have not checked the keypad though and that will be next. Something is turning the modules on, here's hoping.

[wbuxton]

Talked to my Ford guru. He said there are 3 connectors on the back of the cluster. Pull each one to isolate the draw.
Next pull each wire out of the connector to furthur isolate. Made sense to me. I have usually found it's the radio.

[BDBLOM]

This cluster has only 1 connector, draw still present with radio/climate control out of vehicle, this cluster has 4 computer data line wires and i suspect disconnecting the cluster is shuting off my problem downline. I think it's a good idea to try disconnecting wires 1 at a time starting with those data wires. I really appreciate the help, Thanks! I work alone here in my shop and sometimes can't see the forrest for the trees.

[steven kiser]

way off in the woods here but a fact is that if a battery is weak to begin with and showing low voltage the relays have a habit of staying engaged. if the battery is left stand alone will it remain fully charged? i'm thinking that the dash may be pulling through the guages but that would feed back through the ignition switch.

[BDBLOM]

Steven, you must be right on the money with the weak battery theory because yesterday i put the battery charger on this car and left it charge all morning, then i rechecked it in the afternoon. This car takes the full hour for the modules to go to sleep. Been doing this for 35 years and to the best of my recollection this is the first time i've seen a vehicle take that long, hooked everything up last night before i left and it started right up this morning. It's hard for my little brain to grasp but, i may have been chasing a ghost for no reason. Big lesson learned! I want to thank everyone who took the time to help me out. I hope i can contribute to this forum as it is a Great Tool! THANK YOU GENTLEMEN

[steven kiser]

GENTELMEN? who's he talking too..........................................

[a&mauto]

Good Call Steven.

[steven kiser]

really, don't thank me. i should thank you. my little head fixes during the day revolves around this forum. i'm an active member of two others and feel a bit differently about those. this forum is a refreshing relief. the only exception being that boring computer stuff. ya, ya, i know it's an important part of the business as well as my ignorance in this facet of our business breeds boredom. but i want to make point of your communication skills being at the level which allowed us to help. your answers and the moves you made being posted in a reasonable amount of time with the results allowed (at least me) to follow like we were on the phone or i was in the shop. sorry for the ramble.............