1994 Chev Astro - RH Pwr Window Inop FIXED

[Tim Martin]

I got this 94 Chevy Astro minivan in and the right front power window does not operate from either the master switch on the drivers door or the switch on the right front door. Also have no power on the pink wire which is to supply current to the right switch. Neither do I have current on the other wires (blue/wht & tan) at the right switch when I operate the master switch for the right window. There is current coming out of the master switch on those wires though. I am thinking there may be broken wires somewhere but I am puzzled as to how one could get a number of broken wires all at once. The power door locks work fine. Not needing this kind of puzzler at this time.

[jbadenoch]

most likely spot for a broken wire would be where the harness comes out the door and into the body on dr door. I'd pull the boot back and look there first.

[Tim Martin]

most likely spot for a broken wire would be where the harness comes out the door and into the body on dr door. I'd pull the boot back and look there first.

Is it possible for all three wires to be broken at the same time? I guess so. I have no continuity from the drivers door wiring harness to the passenger door wiring harness.

I can see where this is headed.

[jbadenoch]

I usually find just 1 or 2 broken, but anything is possible. If problem is in the door then you'll probably find just 1. Maybe a ground interrupting the circuit. Post fix when you find please

[Tim Martin]

I usually find just 1 or 2 broken, but anything is possible. If problem is in the door then you'll probably find just 1. Maybe a ground interrupting the circuit. Post fix when you find please

Will do. Thanks for the reminder to do that.

[steven kiser]

Could be in both doors. I've repaired the drivers with no response and found the wires broken in another door effecting that window. I wouldn't direct spice either. I always splice in a small loop to prevent it from breaking at that point again.

[nickscarcare]

I had an '06 Equinox that had intermittinet no passenger power locks. This vehicle only had 92k on it, looked and found someone had poorly fixed both passenger and drivers side wires, so at times their nice butt splice would make contact and others it wouldn't. Got 2 new harnesses because the amount of time I would have spent quickly outweighed the price of the new harnesses. I would definitly take a look at the door jam area inside the boot.

[Tim Martin]

Does anyone know where I could get a diagram of how the wiring goes from door to door through the dash? In other words what I am hoping to find is how the wiring harness is routed from door to door with any connections, etc.. A wiring diagram does not give this.

[Tim Martin]

Never mind my last post. I found the problem, thanks to my MAC Tools Fault Finder tool. Broken wires, 3 of them and guess where? Between the door and the door post on the passenger side. Now to fix them. Gonna be a test of ingenuity I expect. I for sure do not want a connection in the flex thingamabob soooo........

[ricmorin]

The material they use for insulation gets brittle and cracks. After that, the copper flexes in one spot and eventually breaks. I've had reasonable success with soldering these wires and using a heavy duty shrink tube to support the insulation. Or you can buy a door harness, which I doubt they still make for that. I agree though, a connector alone would not be preferable.

[steven kiser]

I splice in a loop or if there are multiple broken or cracked wires i will pull off the kick panel, unplug harness and pull it out of the support post, slide off the rubber collar and do my repairs. Not really difficult to do. If there are three broken i'll bet there are more cracked and ready to pop.