1998 Ford Ranger - 2.3L Clutch Pedal

Specific repair issues for RWD trucks, SUVs & vans
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crownvic
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1998 Ford Ranger - 2.3L Clutch Pedal

Post by crownvic »

Yesterday I was losing clutch pedal. If I pumped it up several times it worked. No leaks, master is full.

Today it is working great, didn't have to pump it at all. Got in it this morning its been working ever since?????
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wbuxton
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Re: 1998 Ford Ranger - 2.3L Clutch Pedal

Post by wbuxton »

Those are hard to bleed due to the angle of the installed master cylinder. We use a pressure bleeder with the master cylinder removed.
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steven kiser
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Re: 1998 Ford Ranger - 2.3L Clutch Pedal

Post by steven kiser »

not uncommon for bleeding out a ford clutch pedal and letting it sit because of frustration and later coming back to it and it's fine. i also use a pressure bleeder.
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brianp87
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Re: 1998 Ford Ranger - 2.3L Clutch Pedal

Post by brianp87 »

Same here
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NPASC_mike
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Re: 1998 Ford Ranger - 2.3L Clutch Pedal

Post by NPASC_mike »

Whenever I do one of these, I give my customers the option of replacing the lines and master as well as the slave when I do the clutch, more than once I have had the fitting start sucking air after replacing the clutch and slave. I also had one that when it was cold outside I would loose pedal and once the truck warmed up or the ambient temp got above 45 it would be fine.( Oring on the slave would leak just a bit and/or suck air into the system also)
There is always enough time to do it right the first time.
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steven kiser
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Re: 1998 Ford Ranger - 2.3L Clutch Pedal

Post by steven kiser »

agreed. when i install a clutch on any older vehicle i always suggest replacing hydraulics. many times i use a complete assembly when possible. i bleed them before i install them using the reverse method. even when i install a master or slave cylinder for a ford clutch i'll reverse bleed. gets all the air out. like stated above the angle of the master cylinder makes it almost impossible to bleed in a reasonable, stressless time.
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