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We have a 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan that will come to a stop and it will turn off like turned the key and will start back up right away no problem and sets no codes. Happens mostly when van is hot

Gale

Gale
Please post engine size. I would look and see if it has an aftermarket remote start in it. With your scanner hooked up is it in open or closed loop? You said mostly when warmed up, this makes me think you may have an evap valve stuck open (I've seen them do this and not throw a code) a vacuum leak, bad IAC, partially plugged intake, etc. With todays vehicles control systems a vacuum leak at an idle may be difficult to diagnose because the controls will attempt to balance things out. I'll be out of the shop until about 2pm today but I'll look back at the post when I return.

Cracked flex plates are common on these.

Sorry I did not reply sooner, So we have changed the spark plugs and wires (Twice), it was good for about a week then did it again --- drove around many times and tested finally check engine light came on --- replaced the crank sensor and connector, then was good till after new year, happened again, Customer toko Van to Dealer - they could not find anything - so we know have the Van back again but this time the problem was happening aswell when driving would just cut out breifly but not quit completely, happened about 4 times then the check engine light came on but now that the van is here the check engine light went out -- STUMPED !!

Engine size is a 3.3L Code E

Gale

What code did you have? If it is a crank code, you likely have a cracked flex plate. You can confirm this with a lab scope on the crank signal in record mode and drive it until it happens. If you have crank signal cutout, and a known good sensor, you likely have a bad flex plate. Very common on these.

The Code was a PO339

That was the code that came up last time --- this time was a P1128 - Failure of Closed loop but is in a closed loop, this whole problem started after we initially replaced the spark plugs - started 4 days later. Flywheel appears okay, fuel pressure okay, evap tests okay and no vaccum leaks

What kind of plugs did you use? I've heard of problems like this with some plugs. Did you replace the wires too? Also, please check the charging system, especially for excessive AC ripple. I've heard of cases where ripple can cause some weird things. Maybe do a wiggle test of the crank sensor wiring...could be a rub-thru somewhere causing a short.

Check tsb 18-024-10 fits both codes and symptoms.

O.K. so we have a vehicle that has issues after it was worked on at your shop. I've run into issues where a problem was present before it was worked on in my shop. If the customer came in asking for a tune up it may lead me to believe the issue was present before. You say it cuts off like you turn the key off so this leads to a fuel or ignition failure. A fuel fail would probably not restart right away. All the fuel fails I've ever had (OK 90%) cranked a bit before restarting. Ignition fails are a bit more likely. With the scanner attached what happens right before the stall? I send two techs out on issues like this. One driving one watching the scanner. This is a flex fuel vehicle and I've seen issues along these lines where the vehicle sensor in the tank fails and the PCM is working on the incorrect parameters. Does the vehicle give a little shudder before it shuts off? I've seen power distribution boxes corrode inside or the lead going to it be loose. A wiggle test was suggested in a prior post and I agree. I also see more than a few tsb's about wiring plugs. I would look closely at the injector harness plug along with the harness that feeds the ignition. Wiggle them while vehicle is running. I also attach a fuel pressure gauge to the vehicle and watch pressure while driving. If it's a fuel issue at the delivery level you'll see the gauge fluctuate before failing. Does this happen at all levels of fuel? With the scanner attached watch the IAC readings. If it's stuck open it will cause an almost immediate stall but you should be able to hear a loud sucking noise right before it stalls.

What fixed this?

Update on the Problem, the Customer took the car to the dealer and they said it was bad spark plugs and ignition wires -- so they installed OEM parts which is quite weird cause after all the problems we had we thought of that and the last set of plugs and wires I got them from the Dealer and still had the problem - but when customer came in 3 weeks later said was good after that -- still a little baffled, haven't heard from since

Gale