Manager Forum

I have a 2001 QX4 in for a leaking headgasket, the repair info says to pull engine, I was wondering how accurate this is, and can it be done in the truck? I have oulled the intake and it looks to me like I should be able to do it in the car, but I do not to waste time messing with it and then still wind up yanking it to work on it. Just looks like it would be so much faster to do in the car if possable.

Thanks, LilJoe

Gotta do it in the vehicle my friend. All 22 + hours of it.

Well 22+ a few more then called for comes out around 28 the best I figures, didn't really want to take in a job that will eat half of a week in labor time so I bumped it to a higher figure and was hoping not to get it, but I did, est was about two hun more then the place he normally uses in Bham( about 60 miles from here), but he has moved here and heard I was the one to see for this.......

So you are saying it CAN be done in the truck?

Sorry I misled ya. I was working on an estimate on my other shop computer at the same time and I see I was carrying over data from that estimate.

No, the engine has to come out to do that job. It's like a head gasket in an awd toyota rav4. Nasty job. But a real money maker.

Glad to hear your reputation is such that you get jobs like this. Way to go!

Yank the engine and prepare the customer for cracked exhaust manifolds unless they have already been replaced. I explain to every vehicle owner that when a job calls for a R&R of a motor, transmission, side or rear tank or anything along these lines that there may be other work that should be done just to eliminate any future major expense. It saves my butt a bit and adds to the work orders bottom line. I know you all know what I'm talking about but I do a lot of totted oil pans and I always try to add mounts etc., to the repair. I had a job where a decent customers F250 needed an oil pan and he refused to allow me to replace all the fluid lines while the engine was out. About 4 months later a transmission line blew and he lost the transmission while plowing. His dad claimed I should have replaced all the lines and when I showed him the order signed by his adult son declining the suggested work he got a bit pissed and signed an agreement that would leave anything like that in the future (in any vehicle he owned and that included any his sons drove since he owned those also) up to me. The transmission was junk and replacing all the lines I had suggested went from 300 then to 1200 now. I know I'm being extremely long winded but with the time change and first posting I'm just full of energy.

Good luck and any time I'm being sought out for a specific job like this and do not want to do it because of the time factor I thank them and decline explaining it's a time not an ability issue suggesting the dealer be the ones to do the work since it is such a difficult job and any corner cutting could set up future issues. This has always left the customer with the knowledge that I have the ability to do the work but with the amount of time it takes makes it tough at my shop right now. I've found that adding time so the customer would look other places had the potential of that person finding another shop to do their work. I have jacked the price opposed to telling the person I don't want to work on their vehicles because they are a jerk or something along those lines., I'll end now with this. If I was presented with this vehicle I would look up any TSB's and other things that would save the person money in the long run if done while engine was apart. Without looking at the specs I think the starter is under the intake and would do water pump and belt. Oh ya, I would also ask how much sealer and what kind was added to system to try to stop the leak because if any was and depending on what kind it may solidify when system is ripped open and cause circulation issues when assembled. Now I'm done.