Manager Forum

1999 Volkswagen Jetta GL. New body style. 2.0 AEG motor. Alternator tested, regulator failure. Radio has gone into safe mode 2 times. Replaced alternator, test drive, all is well. Next morning no crank, no start, have bells, dings, and radio. Checked main power box on top of battery and found all of the main fuses were good but one of the small green atc fuses was melted in the housing. It is the fuse on the inside closest to the power wires. Dorman makes a replacement box. I will be replacing it tomorrow. Has anyone ever seen this? I do not know which fuse melted.

Volkswagen has many issues with melting in the fuse box on top of the battery. On some models there is a connector under the battery, that has issues for various things as well. Seen it many times, always the first thing here to check on a VW with any issues.

Takes me back to my 1978 VW Rabbit stranding me on the highway in the middle of nowhere about midnight. No cellphones just thumbing a ride to get a tow truck.

I generally find that with any vehicle that some mindless "tech" has diagnosed an electrical issue and stuffed a test light probe into a fuse seat a burned leg of a fuse usually turns up. Its caused by a bad contact and as we all know loose contacts cause heat and melting. As a rule any vehicle we work on for any reason and we run across wires stuffed into seats or melted fuse insulators (fuse may not be even blown) I make a permanent note on the work order that carries through on the memo tab.

Another point I'm going to make is that I've run into a lot of electrical issues caused by loose or corroded main ground points. I've run into issues with Audi's because the ground attachment bolts run through aluminum castings into the block and as we all know thy will look great but the bolt is contaminated with aluminum oxide and therefore looses it's function. V.W's have fallen prey to this as well. Once these beauties fall victim to this they will overload many of the relays within the power distribution box or boxes causing them to stick closed overheating that circuit.

It's also important to fully test the system including the condition of the battery. If it shows anything less than 90% I consider it no good. If the base voltage is less than 12 volts (on a vehicle that shows no symptoms of a low battery and is considered fully charged) I change it. Volts act as the pathway for amps and if the path is narrow or littered things aren't going to work well. By the evidence in the picture I would say that the seat is damaged or a loose connection is present somewhere in in the circuit. Make sure the fuse amp is correct for that circuit. I've seen many issues expanded upon because some Rock Star stuffed a 20 amp fuse where a lesser amp is called for. Since Dorman makes that power box I'm thinking it's a pretty common issue but never assume and always look further. Remember with situations like these someone else's failed attempts or just plain stupid remedies become ours once we work on the vehicle.

Many shops that perform shoddy work like I'm talking about in this post can't wait to throw out the "we weren't the last ones to work on it and the other shop investigated our professional repair so the warranty is void", or "prove it", etc. Then there is the Bottomer that actually believes the other shop and is certain we are out to screw them and believes it when hey are told we completely destroyed a great repair and caused much more damage than they can fix and needs to go to a dealer. Sorry for the rant.

Thanks for your information guys. I was going to replace the box today, but the rain is holding me off.

Good luck. Please remember a few things like key position and radio pass code. Make sure the fuses are correct amp and in the proper locations. Please take into account that the fuses may have been upped over the years and aren't the correct ones along with any aftermarket universal relays that may not be manufacturer compliant. I would strongly advise taking a good long hard view of the connectors associated with the power distribution box. Some of the pins are so small it's difficult to see any damage by shorting or overheating. Also I would have really traced and load tested all the circuits associated with that fuse. We usually install a lower amp circuit tester is any questionable slot to protect any new part or driver and move forward from there. The Asian market is thought to be the leader is electrical pioneering within the automotive industry but on many applications the Germans seem to have that award. Until you become a bit accustomed to their knowledge and applications it can be extremely frustrating and aggravating, more aggravating for me. I compare it to any scene where the Three Stooges are attempting anything to do with wiring. Well, let us know how you made out. You are having a rain issue, I'm dealing with heavy wet snow right now. Want to trade?
Looking forward to bent control arms as well as a few complaints or attacks dealing with all season tires we sold that just didn't live up to peoples expectations. At least around here if it doesn't snow at least every two weeks people loose their ability to understand and deal with these conditions. Each snow storm becomes the "first" of the season. We have a customer that owns a Honda S.U.V. and a Tiburon. Three times, that's right, three, I've received a call from him telling me he took the Tiburon out for a spin hitting or going over a curb due to snow conditions and the car is in my off site lot with the keys in the drop box. He isn't the only one that does this but is one that accepts blame and doesn't try to push it off on someone else. This behavior is becoming extremely rare and probably will soon disappear.

I got the box installed. She starts, I remembered I wrote the radio code on the top of the radio. Removed the trinket box and retrieved the code. Now for the mis. Is it possible for a plug to back out of the hole? Last time I saw a blue spark and heard ticking, replaced the plugs. While we were inspecting the wires (peeking underneath the plenum) hubby starts poking the wires with the metal handle of the ratchet, while the car was running. ( didn't say anything ) he noticed the wire moved and the engine ran differently. After shutting of the engine I was able to wiggle the wire too. We did not bring tools with us just a small 1/4 " bluepoint ratchet set. My 3/8 with deeps and swivels is in NC. This weekends project will be to check out mr wiggles.

ps. he did not get shocked. SHHHHH

Anything's possible but usually when I wiggle a coil or coil wire seeing a blue flash and ticking noise its shorting to ground. If by chance the plug has worked it's way out I carefully, and I mean with great care inspect the plug threads in the head. If they are worn more than likely the plug will not loosen, it will blow out. I've lost count of how many heads I've repaired because of an improperly fastened plug, either loose or socked in with a one inch ratchet. Anyway it's been great hearing from you and I hope all is working out and you have what you've been looking for.