1999 Olds Intrigue - 3.5L Crossover Pipe

[Hardwood]

Scheduled a 1999 Olds Intrigue for the coolant crossover pipe gaskets.

Procedure not in the repair section, but the labor is in the labor guide.

Shows 9.5 hours labor to replace. I am assuming the cradle gets dropped to remove the exhaust manifold (back bank).

Anyone done this repair before?

Any tips would be helpful!

Thank you.

[steven kiser]

you are correct. we have an engine cradle we use to support engine. disconnect mounts, rack, etc and lower sub frame. mention to customer that the parts coming off may be a bit distorted and may not go back on correctly. not a bad job if you don't get disturbed.

[brianp87]

dont forget the alignment

[steven kiser]

and the fact that the mounts may need to be replaced, along with the fact that it may sound a bit different because it's had a major repair and things that haven't moved in years are being moved and may need to resettle. it's kinda like i feel first thing in the a.m.

[Hardwood]

Ok I finished the job and the answer is NO, you do NOT have to drop the cradle on this vehicle to replace the coolant crossover pipe gaskets.

Book time is 9.0 for the job so it appears they want you to remove the right hand exhaust manifold (8.0 labor). This is because the crossover pipe is impossible to remove without the exhaust pipe getting moved out of the way. The right hand manifold is an integral part of the exhaust crossover pipe (why not put a flange there like most other GM V6's?). The truth is you do not need to REMOVE the manifold, you just need to get it out of the way.

My tips for the next guy to do this job:

1. Suck out the transmission fluid through the dipstick using a trans flush machine or equivalent. You'll be pulling the dipstick tube to gain access.
2. Remove the exhaust as one piece, converter and all together. Saves trying to separate the converter from the rest of the exhaust.
3. Remove the EGR tube nut from the rear exhaust manifold from below (1 1/4" wrench). Remove all the exhaust manifold to cylinder head bolts, and the two flange bolts from the front manifold. I re-used the exhaust manifold gaskets as they are stainless steel and presented no trouble reusing them.
4. Remove throttle body, EGR Valve and EGR valve tubes. Also remove the throttle body heater plate and replace the spring clamps with screw type clamps (insurance against leaks there).
5. From the top, use a Bungy cord to hold the exhaust manifold pipe away from the coolant crossover pipe and you'll have plenty of room to remove the six bolts and then the crossover pipe assembly. Clean the surfaces in a way that makes you feel comfortable (I'm OK with the good old wizzy pads as long as you are careful and clean up after yourself...)

The whole job was not as bad as I expected and the hardest part was lining up the rear exhaust manifold gasket to start the bolts. I used two long skinny screwdrivers to push through the bolt holes, the gasket and into the bolt holes, then sneaked 2 bolts in to get things started.

Parts used: 3 Fel Pro gaskets part number 35722, 1 throttle body gasket Fel Pro part number 61304, 5 quarts of transmission fluid and DexCool.

There were no exhaust leaks and I reused the rubber throttle body gasket between the throttle body heater plate and the plenum. The gasket between the throttle body and the heater plate is paper and must be replaced.

So in the end I discounted my labor by $200 and still made good time and profit while making a customer for life.

Hopefully this thread will help the next guy.

Thank you.

[brianp87]

Thanks for the info and glad it worked out