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Ok lets see how much help I get on this piece. I just bough this legacy from a customer with a broken timing belt. Got new belt on it and it does not start. It was flashing codes 11, 12, 13. I disconnected the battery and now the light flashes steady. It has spark, (will jump a 25kv gap), injector pulse, compression was about 155-165 on all 4. I have not done a leakdown test, but wouldn't a comression test show that? Any help would be appreciated as I am not that up on subarus, except that I like doing the timing belts in these, they are a sinch!!

I did not see mention of fuel pressure, will it hit on carb spray or starter fluid? Really sounds to me like it has no fuel pressure or something besides good fuel in the tank.

If the fuel isn't the issue i believe it's not difficult to have the left head 180 out. Been a while but i have seen it.

Sorry, fuel pressure is 35 koeo, it seems like it is flooding. I have all the timing marks lined up. It has just about fired up a couple of times, and did just backfire out the throttle body. The fuel that is in it is very flammable, I even put some in a clear jar to look for separation. I do have cam and crank a/c voltage. I suppose I never did pull the pulleys off to check for a spun pulley, guess I'm on my way to do that.

Hold on a minute. Go wide open throttle to clear flood. I've seen this before and have gone nuts trying to resolve it. Flooring it maxes out t.p.s. and it shuts down the injectors.................

Thats what I was doing when it backfired through the trottle body. It blew the inlet hose off, and a big fireball, kind of cool!! Does anybody know if the green and black connectors are supposed to be connected at all times or how are they supposed to be when not doing diagnostics on it. I am not sure if I am getting the codes cleared since it says it does that when it is running with no problems. It has codes 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, I did have all the injectors disconnected trying to clear it and making sure I had pulse on all 4, so now I am not sure if they are just stuck in there or if there is a problem? Cam pins are both ok. Everything should be lined up. Should be starting!! Hhmm???

Agian, something keeps nagging at me about the left cam actually being set 180 out. Another thing is look at the main ground, it's a bunch of brown wires that usually are grounded through an intake bolt. They have a habit of corroding internally and you will not see it unless you take the bolt out. I'm going to look into this and get back to you.

Ok, i'm back and i have a good idea of what's going on. I'm thinking that possibly the crank gear is lined up with the key and not the actual mark on the gear. The gear is almost lined up with the key facing 180 out. I have seen this before. The left head being 180 out is on older two belt models. Again, i'm aging myself.

The pins are all lined up in the grooves of the cams. The #1 cyl is at top dead with the mark, pulled plug and verified, did that the first time, I usually do. I did pull the negative cable off last night trying to make sure codes are cleared, but next question does anybody know if the diagnostic connectors are supposed to be plugged in at all times, there are 2 one green and one black, that is how the different diagnostics are done, but I don't see anywhere if they are supposed to be plugged in all the time or not??? When I got the car the black one was plugged in and the green on unplugged, which means it was in read memory. I knew I should have stuck with my Toyotas!! LOL

Ok I got this thing running, apparently there are 2 marks on the crank, there is a triangle on the front edge of the crank pulley, and on the back about a quarter of the way around on the reluctor ring is another mark, line it all up with that one and wa la it starts and runs good. The picture under the timing belt section is on very good on Mitchell, but if you go in through engine repair and search through there, it has a better picture of the timing marks, that one should be in the timing belt section. I know Mitchell just goes off the manufacture pics. Yes I did line up cyl #1 with the plug out and the triangle lined up there, but don't go with that one. Lesson learned for the next subaru!! I could enjoy working on these.

nice

I truley love the fact that you told the truth on what the issue was, I know of some folks that would have made something up and never admited to the real problem. Hats off for that!!!!!!

we all make mistakes some of US(me) more then others lol

I am human, I make mistakes, I admit to it when I do. I have no problems with that. Yep some out there probably laughed at me, but I am sure they have never made a mistake. If they haven't, show up here and I will give ya a million dollars!! (If I had it). I wanted to post the fix just in case someone else runs into it. I still think the pics in the engine repair section should be put under the timing belt section, they are much better. I am sure there is someone at Mitchell that could do that. Or maybe everyone else is smarter than me to do something like this. What is weird is I even pulled the plug out to feel for TDC. Oh well its fixed and runs. Not bad for a cheap car. Timing belt set cost me more than I paid for the car, got American Racing rims with it and an extra set of tires. Winter will be fun with my 4wd car now!!

You can post a tip in the repair info to make sure that future folks do not run into the same problem.....

I've used the wrong marks before.

ricmorin wrote:I've used the wrong marks before.

One more reason to leave a tip and save teh future hairs of other folks........

Yep, done that as well. Probably figured that out by my reply......................

I will do that. Thanks again.