2006 Kia Sorento - Won't Rev? FIXED

[jbadenoch]

Vin kndjt733265646353

Came in for maintenance, no runability issues. Replaced timing belt, water pump and spark plugs. After repair stumbled when running, but would rev up, discovered two rocker arms popped off. Replaced. Now will idle fine but on acceleration fuel trims are at -25 (0 at idle) ex glows red. Needless to say it runs like crap. Triple checked timing belt, dead on. Acts like a bad drive by wire system but it is direct cable. No codes set.

[brianp87]

Ive never seen it but I found this info?
1. Slowly apply and release the accelerator several times while monitor the signal voltage of both the APS 1 at terminal 6, Green wire and APS 2 at terminal 3, White/Black wire to determine if either signal cuts out or deviates greatly from the other. These signal voltage should start out around 0.5 volts and should increase evenly to about 4.5 volts as the throttle is depressed. The sensor may be faulty if the signals do not match each other or if one signal cuts out.

2. If both of the APS signals cut out at the same time, check for loss of 5 volt reference to the sensor and a potential bad wire or poor connection.

3. Also check the accelerator closed position switch voltage on the Pink wire. This voltage should be 0 volts with the accelerator release and 5 volts as the accelerator is slightly depressed. The accelerator position sensor may be faulty. If this voltage is not switching to indicate the accelerator is being depressed.

And this
To perform Electronic Throttle System (ETS) initialization:
1. Erase the trouble codes in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
2. Turn the ignition key on for less than 1 second and turn it right back off. (Do not start the engine)
3. Leave the key off until the main relay clicks off - wait about 10 seconds.
4. Turn the key on for more than 1 second to record the throttle position sensor on the EEPROM.

And this
1. Check for codes in the Engine Control Module (ECM) and the Transmission Control Module (TCM).

2. Monitor the throttle position sensor to see if it is showing the throttle increase.

3. Verify that the calculated load goes to 85% when trying to pass. If it doesn't, check the mass air flow sensor.

4. Check the automatic transmission fluid temperature on the scan tool to verify that it is around 180 degrees when hot.

[jbadenoch]

Brian, tnx for the effort... are these notes for a vehicle with drive by wire?

[brianp87]

I found them on identifix for an 06 sorento 3.5L

[ricmorin]

Sounds to me like it's out of time. I would want to know why those followers came off. Also, don't rely on the timing marks on the sprockets since you had this follower problem. I would make sure that you didn't shear off the dowel pin that aligns the sprocket to the cam. This would give you false cam timing. -25 means it's pulling fuel away, yet the glowing indicates otherwise. Check the sprocket on the cam with the follower issue.

[brianp87]

I had a 2.0L sportage that someone tried to patch the crank when the dowell broke. We did the same but patched it to were it was in time lol

[jbadenoch]

Tnk for the input. Will tear it down again and check the cam pins... let ya know.

[jbadenoch]

Just a little extra info on this one. 99 percent sure that the 2 exh rockers popped out when the cam gear sprung back when lining up marks. With the rockers out of place and with the engine it reved up just fine although there was a popping from intake due to exh gas not being released from cylinder and obviously a skip. At this point, after diag that exh valves not opening, we removed intake and valve cover to discover we were correct about exh valves. Were able to re-install rockers without removing cam or belt. After re-assy, thats when no rev. To start it at this point (just to idle it) we remove fp relay and crank till it starts then quickly install relay. Idles smooth but no rev.
Another little mind game is this, when starting the work the first thing tech did was line crank PULLEY to tdc according to timing indicator in cover. when covers all off at this point the crank GEAR was on the money and so were the cam gears. Now with the crank GEAR lined to its mark, the crank PULLEY as at approx 35-40 degr atd. ??????????????????????? Im really stumped about that. The crank pully aligns to a pin, still in tact, the crank gear is splined and never was removed???????????????????????
Need the car gods to shine some light on this confusing mess. Thx in advance for ANY insight.
Right now were going to tear it all down again and pay very close att to cam and cam gears and crank gear relation to pulley. I feel like steve now, writing a book, lol

[jbadenoch]

don't know how but do know what. On the back of the crank gear is a reluctor blade that attatches to gear with two tiny pins. Somehow the tiny pins sheared off and the blade turned seperate from gear by 3 teeth. The crank timing marks are on the blade, thus making the crank gear itself off by 3 teeth. New gear and blade and should run like a top, a Kia top. thx to those who put there 2 cents in, althoug with inflation should be a buck and a halfs worth.
Yall have a great day

[steven kiser]

thanks for posting the fix

[jbadenoch]

thanks for posting the fix

Yes sir